🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, tucked near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this gastronomic triumph.